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发表于 2016-7-24 11:12:01
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在我前方的路面上,狗在阳光下打盹,孩子们则在柏油已经碎裂的空旷道路上跑来跑去,除了他们之外四下无人。再往前200码的左边路肩上,是四周围用有刺铁丝围起的地方警察局。当我准备通过时,一名肚子前斜挂着突击步枪,身穿绿色制服的哨兵举起武器,用黑色的枪管示意我从前门进去。
I'm led to the commander's office, where I'm offered a handshake and a chair. The commander is an imposing man in his 40s named G. K. Grung, his olive uniform festooned with flashing gold stars. Seated behind a wooden desk, he examines my passport and visa. He's especially interested in my Restricted Area Permit, the paper authorizing me to travel the final 18 miles (28 kilometers) of road inside India's otherwise off-limits state of Arunachal Pradesh. Here in Arunachal's jungle, the road crests a 3,727-foot (1,135-meter) mountain notch called Pangsau Pass, which constitutes India's hotly defended border with Myanmar, the nation formerly known as Burma.
我被引入指挥官的办公司,他跟我握了手,请我坐下。年过40的指挥官名叫G. K. Grung,颇有威严,橄榄色制服上挂满闪闪发亮的金星。他坐在木桌后,先检查了我的护照和签证。他对我的“禁区通行证”特别感兴趣,这个文件授权我行走此路段的最后28公里,这段路位于印度的禁区Arunachal Pradesh。公路在Arunachal的丛林中直上1136公尺高的Pangsau隘口(在印度语中的意思为“地狱隘口”)。这里位于印度和缅甸激烈争议的边界上。
Commander Grung looks up. "I'm sorry," he says, "but we have been issued new orders about the road to Pangsau Pass. No visitors are allowed past this point. Unfortunately, this means you." He smiles, then taps his desk with his right forefinger. "There is significant rebel activity here at the moment. The jungles are something of a no-man's-land. We cannot assure your security. Therefore, you cannot proceed."
Grung指挥官抬起头。“很抱歉,”他说:“我们已经接到关于通往Pangsau隘口路段的新指示。所有访客都禁止通过此处。很不幸,这也包括你。”他微微一笑,然后用右手食指轻敲桌面。“目前本地叛军活动十分猖獗,丛林已经是战争的前线了。我们无法保证你的安全,因此,你不能再往前了。”
I smile back. This is how my journey along the Burma Road begins: with recollections of old soldiers and a warning backed by machine guns as I get close to India's touchy frontier.
我也报以微笑。这就是我的滇缅公路之旅的序幕:有老兵们的回忆;也有在接近印度敏感前线时,荷枪实弹的军人给我的警告。
For about 75 cents a day—three-quarters of what men make—women in Ledo, India, carry coal to railway cars. The city's rail line made it the terminus of one of the most controversial and ambitious engineering feats of World War II: the building of a military supply road through Burma, then held by the Japanese. The Allied forces who built the road were plagued by monsoons, disease, and enemy fire. |
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